Friday, July 8, 2011

Indian Traditional Sarees

Indian traditional sarees(saris) are draped at festivals, weddings and many other ceremonies. Bengalis wear a Bengali traditional sarees(saris) for the DurgaPooja. They wear traditional indian saris on all the five days. It could be a white and red-bordered saree for one of the days. It should have intricate work that gives it an elegant look. Traditional white sarees are worn while going for sad gatherings. Trendy sarees or traditional Benarasi sarees are hot during wedding. They are classified as traditional wedding sarees. Traditional embroidered sarees are quite famous for sangeet and party wear. Traditional silk sarees from Bangalore, chennai make a woman's wardrobe complete. Bandhej  are the tremendous sarees of Rajasthan.

Indian traditional saree
Indian traditional saree



Indian traditional saree: Aishwarya in Bollywood bengali saree
Indian traditional saree: Juhi Chawla in Bollywood Maharashtriyan Saree
Indian traditional saree: Rani Mukharji in Bollywood Rajasthani Saree
Indian traditional saree: Madhuri Dixit in Juhi Chawla in Bollywood Maharashtriyan Saree
Indian traditional saree: Madhuri Dixit in Traditional historical saree
Indian traditional saree: Shridevi in South Indian ayyar saree


saree(Sari) is worn on different occasions and thus there are number of saree(sari) drapping styles available. If you are going to an office its advisable to pin up your sari, this looks smart and is manageable too. For parties, just pin up the tip of the sari and let the rest fall on your hand. This gives a very graceful look. We understand how important it is to know how to wear saree (sari) in proper style thus we learn you how to wear a sari in different styles with illustrated demonstrations in different steps.
Have a look on wedding sarees, indian traditional sarees, fancy sarees, bollywood sarees, embroidered sarees
Well there are a number of styles of saree draping except the normal nivi style like cowl-neck, air hostess, mumtaz, rajasthani, gujrati, bengali, maharashtrian. People would luv to know there draping techniques!!
Here are some types of sarees of regional traditional sarees

 Andhra  Pradesh Pochampalli, Venkatagiri, Kalamkari
 Gujarat Rajkot, Bandhini, mirror work, Patola, Gurjari block  print
 Karnataka Kasuti embroidery, Dharwad, Mysore crepe, Ilkal,  Mankaala mooru, mysore silk
 Madhya  Pradesh Tassar, Chanderi, Maheshwari
 Maharashtra Narayanpethi, Jijamata, puneri, Paithani, Sindhi  embroidery
 Orissa sambalpuri, kotki
 Rajasthan Kota, Sanganeer block print, Bandhej
 Tamil Nadu Kanjeevaram silk, Kanjeevaram thread work in cotton,  Coimbatore cotton, Salem cotton silk, Dharmavaram
 West Bengal Baluchari, bengal cotton, tangail,  dhakai (well,  actually from Dhaka)

Maharashtriyan Saree
Indian traditional saree: Juhi Chawla in Bollywood Maharashtriyan Saree
This style of sari draping is very similar to the way the Maharashtrian dhoti is worn. In 1940’s mostly Maharashtriyan women preferred Nauwari kashta saree which had been nine yards long. This style of sari draping is common among the Brahmin women especially in Maharashtra, Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu.
This sari is draped in a way that the center of the sari is neatly placed at the back of the waist and the ends of the sari are tied securely in the front, and then the two ends are wrapped around the legs. The decorative ends are then draped over the shoulder and the upper body or torso. In previous black and white marathi as well hindi old bollywood movies, women refered  to wear whte cotton six yard sarees with balloon bubli sleeves blouses (as begali women wear).
Also check lehenga cholis, embroidered lehenga cholis

Then Maharashtriyan women began to wear Saha-wari (Six yards) saree which gave a little bit graceful look. In 1960’s-70’s  bollywood movies gave a paachwari (Five yards) saree trend which wear worn by Jaya Bachchan in Guddi, Chupke chupke, Rati Agnihotri in Ek duje ke liye and Sharmila Tagore, Babita, Asha Parekh and so on. Mumtaaz gave a new trend in Brahmachari movie of Mumtaaz style drepping saree. Rekha gave a very sexy and glam look to fancy chiffon five yard saree in 1970’s bollywood fashion with plain transparent sarees and high neck, halter neck, noodles strip blouse etc.
Also have a look on bollywood sarees.
You would like to know more about Satyapaul sarees, Ritu Beri Wedding Lehenga cholis and Sarees, Sabyasachi Sarees

The saha-vari (six yard) "modern" Indian sari evolved in the colonial period as a "leisure" garment, like many other Victorian norms that were being adopted by the colonial elite. In that sense it is in contrast to the nau-vari (nine yard) , which is more geared to work, horseriding and so on. The Bengali practice of no blouses with sarees was thought by Victorian governesses / missionaries in the early 19th c. as being too immoral, and frilly, ruffled blouses developed as a more modern, yet respectable garment to go with the modern sari.

European travellers do write of Maratha women in the 18th century wearing the nau-vari without a head covering on horseback. No side-saddle with guerilla warfare!
Nauwari or kashta saree had been worn by 'Jijabai' (Shaivajiraje's mother), Rani Laxmibai, Ahilyabai holkar and all the maharashtriyan maratha queens.
The nine-yard sarees that are popular in the south come mainly from Kancheepuram and Arni, from special looms earmarked for the purpose. "There is some trade in such sarees in Maharashtra and Karnataka, but the majority of buyers are still Tamil Brahmins," adds Jaganmohan. "But overall, yes, I suppose we sell fewer nine-yard sarees today than we did 10 or 15 years ago."
Nauwari sari if worn properly can be very sporty when one ties the 'Ochaa'. One can do almost everything one can do wearing pants. I have seen women riding bicycles, with all that padding, no need for biking shorts, so riding horses is no problem i suppose. All the 'mangaLagaur' games can be very tricky with regular five-six yard sari, but in nauwari they are no problem at all.
and then when you are doing playing, just let loose the 'ochaa' and it looks very sophisticated and sexy.

of course one has to learn to wrap it first.
Rajasthani Saree
Indian traditional saree:  Bollywood Rajasthani Saree/lehenga choli

Rajasthan is very famous for its clothing. Rajasthani saris from Rajasthan such as bandhni or bandhej sarees are well known all over the world. Rajasthani sari is very comfortable during summer season. Different printing styles are known to Rajasthani people like block print, leheriya print and bandhni print or tie & dye. Chiffon and georgette Rajasthani sarees are also developing their roots in the world market. Jaipur is the big sari centre in rajasthan so sometime it also known by the name of jaipur as jaipur sarees. Rajasthan represents the ultimate confluence of history, chivalry, romance, rugged natural beauty and colour. As Col. James Todd, the celebrated writer once wrote : "Rajasthan exhibits the sole example in the history of mankind of a people withstanding every outrage barbarity can inflict or human nature sustain, and bent to the earth, yet rising buoyant from the pressure and making calamity a whetstone to courage"
Today, long years after the last bugle was sounded, and after the warring kingdoms of erstwhile Rajputana, sheathed their swords, the desert appears romantic, its arts, the expression of a brave yet sensitive race, its architecture the embodiment of strength and grace. It is as if, in celebration of life itself.

While an age has come to pass, cities flourish and contemporary Rajasthan is an explosion of colour and paegentry. It is the ultimate destination offering something to suit the tastes of every single different traveller.

The process of making bandhni clothes is basically the same in Gujarat and Rajasthan, though the pattern and designs vary. The craftsmen from Rajasthan are easily recognizable because they grow the nail on their little finger to facilitate their lifting the cloth to tie it. On they wear a small metal ring with a point. The Gujarati craftsmen prefer to work without these aids.
Bandhni sarees and dupattas are available at most shops all over India but to get the authentic material it is advisable to buy from the Rajasthan or Gujarat Chiffon and georgette Rajasthani saris are also developing their roots in the world market. Kota doria is a unique hand-woven fabric having a characteristic square-check pattern. The fabric was predominantly used as sarees, the Kota doria is now a name given to sarees woven at Kaithun. Villages known to weave Kota Doria are mainly located in Rajasthan especially in Kota, Bundi and Baran districts of the state. However, the oldest and biggest concentration of weavers is in Kaithun, situated about 15 kms from Kota (the district headquarter).

Sarees or lehengas worn in Rudali and Paheli are in rajasthani style.
Go for the authentic Rajasthani flavour - silk ghagras and cholis with kundan trinkets worn by Rani Mukherjee in the movie 'Paheli'.
Also have a look on lehenga cholis, bollywood lehenga cholis
Bengali Saree
Indian traditional saree: Gorgeous Vidya Balan in Bollywood Bengali Parineeta Saree
Vidya Balan Looking Gorgeous in Saree

For Bangali women, Suchitra Sen with her sultry, yet elegant looks and avant-garde sari blouses, became the icon of fashion. Sen's high-necked, short-sleeved blouses in many of her films appealed to the more conservative Bangali woman who preferred to be stylish in a more understated way, which is why the sari blouse went through major face-lifts. Collars could be high-necked or boat necked, while sleeves could be three-quarter length with lace frills, puffed out, or just plain short. Sleeveless and one shouldered blouses were also part of this ensemble. Blouses, in fact, could be in plaid, polka dots, heavily embroidered or even minuscule cholis tied up in the front. Sometimes show-buttons adorned the back of the blouse to give that extra petite flair.
At a time when hip gets hipper, cool gets cooler and jazz gets jazzier, Bengali taant saris too are busy getting a makeover. Enter, ultra fashionable, super pretty Bengali saris ? this time in a contemporary avatar. Colour forecasts, latest patterns, unusual weaves, sexy styling? cotton drapes from Bengal are witnessing it all. Good Life brings you up to date.
Easy to dress up a Bengali sari, you think? Well think again, because just revisiting Parineeta is not enough to get your contemporary style basics right. Today, you need an added element of drama.
So feel free to replace that border-matching-blouse with a summery strap top. Mix or match your sari by borrowing from other states. Look around for some Rajasthani or Gujarati separates as contrast.
And gold doesn’t necessarily have to be the hue of the jewellery you team with a taant. You can always go silver or even junk. Interesting tribal beads worn around your neck and wrists could well be the missing glam link.
Make-up is another zone you can experiment with. Make-up expert Aniruddha Chakladar believes that eyes ? the most eloquent feature of a Bengali woman ? should be the highlight with a taant sari. “Dab a soft shade of peach or brick on your eyelids and blend darker brown on the outer corner of your eyes. Line your upper and lower lids with kohl and top it off with mascara.”
Though the traditional Bengali prefers a redder mouth, but with heavy eyes, advises Aniruddha, you should keep the mouth pastel and glossy. You can also replace the red bindi with something more straight-lined or funky.
"I get so lonely I could die" in "Parineeta". "The classic look is very interesting," said Rocky S., one of Bollywood's best-known clothes-makers. "

Dress up a Bengali sari
Easy to dress up a Bengali sari, you think? Well think again, because just revisiting Parineeta is not enough to get your contemporary style basics right. Today, you need an added element of drama.
So feel free to replace that border-matching-blouse with a summery strap top. Mix or match your sari by borrowing from other states. Look around for some Rajasthani or Gujarati separates as contrast.
And gold doesn’t necessarily have to be the hue of the jewellery you team with a taant. You can always go silver or even junk. Interesting tribal beads worn around your neck and wrists could well be the missing glam link.
Make-up is another zone you can experiment with. Make-up expert Aniruddha Chakladar believes that eyes ? the most eloquent feature of a Bengali woman ? should be the highlight with a taant sari. “Dab a soft shade of peach or brick on your eyelids and blend darker brown on the outer corner of your eyes. Line your upper and lower lids with kohl and top it off with mascara.”
Though the traditional Bengali prefers a redder mouth, but with heavy eyes, advises Aniruddha, you should keep the mouth pastel and glossy. You can also replace the red bindi with something more straight-lined or funky.
Also have a look on natural beauty, bridal makeup
South Indian
Sridevi in Malini Iyer wears the madisar comfortably
Indian traditional saree: Shridevi in south Indian saree
THE madisar, the traditional nine-yard saree, might become extinct if an effort is not made to popularise it among youngsters who find it cumbersome, reports Usha Raman Rama Bharadwajan, 48, a bank employee in Hyderabad, is readying her stock of nine-yard sarees for a special puja before her daughter's wedding. Tradition demands that each of the six women who will assist her in the puja wear the nine-yard madisar. Grumbling about the discomfort of wrapping the cumbersome yardage around their resistant limbs, the women nevertheless acquiesce, in deference to tradition and succumbing to their belief that things must be done "the right way".
The "right way", in most orthodox Tamil Brahmin households, dictates that for important ceremonies - like weddings and death anniversarees - the woman of the house must wear the nine-yard saree draped in the complex manner that has been handed down through generations. The man, too, is expected to wear the equally complex panchagatcham - five-pleated dhoti.
Until a few decades ago, the beautiful madisar was obligatory wear for all married women, all the time, just as the panchagatcham was worn by all married men. "It is still considered a social mark of marriage," says Rajam Venkatraman, 78, a homemaker from Chennai and an avid follower of religious traditions.
Even today, the Tamil Brahmin bride customarily wears a red koorai, a silk nine-yard saree, that she ties for the first time with the help of her sister-in-law just before the kanya daanam. The madisar is not just a garment or a style. "The madisar has both symbolic and practical meaning," says Seetha Anand, a young educator from Hyderabad, who says she "loves the look of the madisar—when worn well, it is so flattering". The nine yards of the saree function as the all-inclusive garment. It is worn without a petticoat or underskirt— unlike the normal six-yard saree - and, if wrapped properly, requires no other undergarment or upper garment (such as a blouse). "With one of the folds pulled through between the legs (and tucked into the back on the belt), the style fulfils the requirements of modesty and protection," says Anand.
The trouser-like style also made it easy to work and move around in. In fact, the tradition of a nine-yard saree was prevalent in many other Indian states like Maharashtra and Karnataka. History even mentions several women soldiers draped in a nine-yard saree going to war. Women like Jhansi's Queen Laxmibai fought enemy troops on horseback, wearing a nine-yard saree.
However, the sari is not an easy garment to wear. "It's good exercise every morning, because you have to bend, twist around, move your arms every which way...it is a good 10-minute workout!" laughs Venkatraman.
The complex manner in which it is tied makes it difficult to learn, and the length of the sari makes it difficult to maintain - both factors that have contributed to the madisar's decline in recent times. Fewer and fewer young people know how to tie the saree without assistance.
In fact, you don't see the madisar much these days - not unless you walk the streets of Panagal Park and Mylapore in Chennai, or perhaps in the smaller temple towns of Tamil Nadu.
A few enterprising retailers in Chennai have introduced "ready-to-wear" madisars, complete with stitched pleats, hooks and belt, "mainly to cater to the tradition-conscious NRI market," says one observer. These have not really taken off, and hardly any of the mainline sari shops carry them. Nalli, one of Chennai's most popular saree shops, once did brisk business in nine-yard sarees all year round. "Now, sales are mainly restricted to the marriage season and festivals like Divali," says Jaganmohan, the manager of the Hyderabad branch of Nalli.
The nine-yard sarees that are popular in the south come mainly from Kancheepuram and Arni, from special looms earmarked for the purpose. "There is some trade in such sarees in Maharashtra and Karnataka, but the majority of buyers are still Tamil Brahmins," adds Jaganmohan. "But overall, yes, I suppose we sell fewer nine-yard sarees today than we did 10 or 15 years ago."
As Bharadwajan's relatives prepare for the marriage ceremony, most of them will need help wearing the saree today. Most will not be able to pass on the art of wearing it to the next generation... The future of the madisar seems bleak.

Pakistan

In Pakistan, the wearing of saris has almost completely been replaced by the shalwar kameez for everyday wear, though it remains a popular dress for formal functions, especially weddings amongst the Pakistani elite, and is currently gaining interest. The sari is sometimes worn as daily-wear, mostly in Karachi, by those elderly women who were used to wearing it in pre-partition India and by the some of the new generation who have re-introduced the interest of saris.The reason why the sari lost popularity in Pakistan, was due to it being viewed as a Hindu dress. Although she was seen wearing them, Fatima Jinnah, the "Mother of the Nation", called the sari "unpatriotic" and Pervez Musharraf's wife stated that she never wears them.

Sri Lankan saree

Sri Lankan women wear saris in many styles. However, two ways of draping the sari are popular and tend to dominate; the Indian style (classic nivi drape) and the Kandyan style (or 'osaria' in Sinhalese). The Kandyan style is generally more popular in the hill country region of Kandy from which the style gets its name. Though local preferences play a role, most women decide on style depending on personal preference or what is perceived to be most flattering for their figure.
The traditional Kandyan (Osaria) style consists of a full blouse which covers the midriff completely, and is partially tucked in at the front as is seen in this 19th century portrait. However, modern intermingling of styles has led to most wearers baring the midriff. The final tail of the sari is neatly pleated rather than free-flowing. This is rather similar to the pleated rosette used in the 'Dravidian' style noted earlier in the article.